Cat6 can handle 10gb though, so people who put it in when available are already sitting pretty when the equipment becomes cost effective enough to justify the upgrade. Solid Cabling is a simple wire of copper, which is better at transmitting data, but if flexed too much and repeatedly, will break inside the wire. Stranded Cabling is braided copper filaments instead of a single solid wire. People will order ft rolls of Stranded Cabling and wiring a house or office with it.
I see stranded in walls far more than I should, and occasionally I see solid cabling being used as a patch cable, bent like pipe cleaners into patch panels. Wiring comes in various gauges, the thickness of the wire. Lower is thicker gauge wiring. You want AWG23 gauge wiring for at least your structuring wiring, where distance quickly becomes a factor.
TIP: Do your best to run the wire along the path it will follow between the two devices. Do not pull the cable tight between two points and be sure the cable is not kinked or tightly pulled around corners. The cable should have a little wiggle room. TIP: If the location of the wire allows, consider including an extra length in the cable.
This prevents having to make another cable if one device needs to move a short distance after the cable is made. One way of adding a short length to the cable is to wrap it around a closed fist 2 or 3 times. Step 1: Measure out 1. The cable should be snug in the strippers, but not tight.
For the recommended strippers, the second notch inward is appropriate. Step 2: Ensure the blade of the wire stripper is perpendicular to the wire and turn the wire stripper around the cable once , which will score the sheathing of the wire.
NOTE: Turn the wire stripper only once. Turning the stripper more than once increases the chance of cutting the sheathing of the inner wires. If the inner sheathing is cut, it can make the next steps more difficult or cause the wires to break. Step 3: Remove the wire stripper and gently bend the cable along the score line. This should break the sheathing which can be pulled off the wire and thrown away.
NOTE: Some wires contain a strand of fiber similar to the one shown in the image. Cut the fiber from the cable near the end of sheathing. NOTE: As you become more experienced with making Ethernet cables, you may not need to remove the full 1.
After the sheathing is removed, the bundle of 8 wires will be exposed as shown. Step 1: Separate the twisted pairs into an "x" pattern as shown. When you look down the cable from the end, you should not see any of the twisted pairs crossing over each other.
Also, the wires do not have to be in the same configuration as seen in the image as long as the wires are not crossing over each other. Step 2: Separate the wires of the twisted pairs. When the wires are separated, they should not cross over each other. Step 3: Assemble the wires into a fan shape and organize for the data plug. There are two common ways to organize the wires for the data plug.
Regardless of which one you use, both ends of the cable MUST use the same configuration otherwise the cable will not work. If you made a mistake on your first end, this is your opportunity to fix it by configuring your wires the same way as the terminated end. The TA configuration works just as well and will not affect the transmission quality of the cable. Both of these configurations use the design of the wires twisted pairs to insulate the wires from each other and prevent interference and data loss.
It is useful to memorize whichever configuration you prefer. If you are interested in making an Ethernet Crossover cable, just do an image search for "Ethernet Crossover Cable Diagram" to get a wire configuration diagram.
Step 4: Firmly grasp all the wires near the sheathing and slide your fingers up, collecting all the wires into a flat line. Make sure none of the wires jump positions. When looking at the wire colors from left to right, the wires should be in the same configuration as described above. Step 5: Straighten the wires. Put your conductors into sequence. This is where you will play around lining up the conductors. The spline inside the cable jacket will fight you every step of the way.
Work with the spline as much as possible. For any Ethernet cable that has a spline, this step in particular requires patience and practice. The goal is to minimize conductor cross over while maintaining the TB in my case sequence. The next step is to flush cut the conductors so they go into the load bar evenly. Flush cut straight across.
All lined up in TB sequence. Once lined up then flush cut. Keep the conductors lined up at all costs during this process. Once you are satisfied with the color sequence, slide the load bar towards the cable jacket to an equal distance width place the load bar in position about 0.
Just about ready for RJ45 plug insertion! But, not so fast. The idea is to shape it. Try and keep the oval cutout level with the load bar. Since the metal shield on the other side of the plug blocks the view of the conductors, you will have to use the bottom side as your reference. Push in the load bar assembly as far up into the plug as possible. This is a termination that is tighter than the required 0. Make those terminations tight! Grab your RJ45 crimp and termination tool.
Place the plug into the tool it will only go one way. Continue placing pressure on the cable and plug by pushing lightly into the tool cavity. At the same time, press the lever downward in one smooth motion. This single step does one thing only:. If your RJ45 crimp tool has an adjustable strain latch presser bar, this is the time to disengage it from activating. If you do not, the presser bar will come up when you terminate the plug conductors and crush the rear of the RJ45 plug -- ruining it.
Squeeze the handle closed while keeping pressure on the cable. Now it is time to deal with the external ground. The idea is to put the drain wire into direct metal to metal contact with the external ground tab and then crimp the ground tab into place. There are a few steps involved The drain wire should be between the cable jacket and the metal tab.
Place the plug into the ground tab crimp cavity at the rear of the termination tool. After starting the crimp with the screwdriver, place the plug into the crip cavity at the rear of the tool latch side down. Press tool handle downward to complete the external ground tab crimp.
Now inspect your work. Make sure the eight golden contacts are fully down and none are popped up. If any are popped up, your termination is bad. Try retermination with the tool again.
If that does not work, you will have to cut the plug off and start over. It happens. Another view of the crimped ground tab. Once you have terminated both ends of your cable run, it is time for testing. There are a number of tools to accomplish this, and the easier and more informative the test is, the more expensive it will be.
There it is. Pretty easy to do, once you have a couple goes at it.
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